This month’s Minerva Blogging Network make is a style-me-up or style-me-down collared shirt using the most wonderful “retro” cotton lawn . The pattern to me looks a bit Orla Kierly – it’s a veritable topsy turvey forest of cute trees on a black (or almost black) background.
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I love the feeling that wearing a crisp & soft shirt brings & I like making shirts. I like the precision needed to construct them, but it’s a precision that is not overbearing. I can make a shirt in a day, easily. And I am on a promise to make my sons shirts – no excuse now – this make counts as flexing my shirt-making muscles. I *shall* be taking them both a Mum-made shirt when I next see them in May – it’s a promise.
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I have used the Tyler pattern by Indie design pattern company, Named. (Gosh I am turning into a Named fangirl aren’t I? Looking back over my recent makes you’d think I had some kind of style crush. OK. I have. ) But back to the Tyler Shirt- I was intrigued by the raglan sleeves. I mean we all love raglan sleeves, right, because they are so much easier to set in. And the usual place to find raglan sleeves tends to be t-shirts and some dresses. But how do raglan sleeves and a collared shirt work together? I needed to see for myself.
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I was not sure how much of the raglan sleeve lines would be lost in the fabric’s pattern, but actually wasn’t that concerned. This blouse was ultimately about the fabric, the shirt pattern I chose was an opportunity to satisfy my curiosity.
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So how did the raglan sleeves work out then? The sleeves have two seams- one underneath & one along the top from neck to top of your wrist. They are much easier to insert than the traditional sleeve with a gathered or eased sleeve cap. Fit-wise I think the pattern has been drafted with more rounding on top of the shoulder than I need & in general I feel there’s just a smidge too much fabric in the upper back/ neck that I would take out next time (because I did not make a test garment I’m afraid to say!) Looking at the way it sits on Barbarella, you would think there is something a bit *different* about the fit across the shoulders/ upper back – so next time I would go in & tweak that a bit. But equally next time, it would be really cool to highlight the raglan sleeves & the lines created in the fabric you choose – you could use different fabrics / lace sleeves or just a sheer chiffon. It would look really stunning.Image may be NSFW.
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As well as the raglan sleeves, it’s a fitted style with bust darts, waist shaping and a centre back seam for added shaping. The collar is cute & small. If you are sewing collars you might like to check this tip out for getting a nice sharp point. I used it this time & it is genius!
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In terms of sewing challenges, the trickiest part would be the sleeve/cuff placket, but if I said that it’s not as scary as you think it’s going to be, maybe you’d give it a go? I for one accidentally missed the tracing of the sleeve placket from the pattern so instead sewed a continuous lap using a 1.5” wide length of fabric & the instructions from my Dressmakers’ Techniques Bible. Sewing a continuous lap is easier I think than a placket. The centre button stand is made my favourite way – using just one facing per front. The facing (which becomes the button stand) is sewn facing right side to shirt front wrong side, & then flipped to the front & edge stitched down. So neat.
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I’ve chosen little jet effect faceted buttons & they have worked really well with this fabric I think. It’s sometimes difficult to choose buttons online, without seeing them & without your fabric in front of you & I reckon I got it right this time!
So far I’ve worn this with my Vogue baggy trousers – Interestingly enough – I see that Nicole made the trousers I’m wearing as her Minerva make this month too!
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But it’s great left hanging out with my Jamie jeans as well as wearing it with a cute simple black skirt for work. And now you know why I needed to make the *plain black skirt*.
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Buttoned up with an organza bow.
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With my new (not-so-plain) Meringue skirt is a perfect work outfit.
It’s going to be very versatile ! Even the spook in me thinks so …
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If you fancy making a shirt, it doesn’t have to be this pattern, here’s a link to the kit which includes enough fabric, thread & the sweet jet buttons. Enjoy!!