So I’ve always been scared of sewing jeans, have you? I have been in awe of those who tread the hallowed halls wearing top stitched, neat fitting denim clad pins. I have revered them & have seen *sewing jeans* as something that I aspired too, but worried about:
- Fit
- That my sewing machine would cope with all those layers
- That my top stitching would be neat enough
- Jeans buttons
- Jeans zip fly
- And fit again.
I have gushed profusely & hopefully not too sycophantically every time I’ve seen someone blog about sewing their own jeans, most notably, Tanit Isis, Carolyn & Kathryn from Yes I Like that. and Melissa, Fehr Trade. P.S.M.O.J (Pre sewing my own jeans) I would have said that *those who sew jeans* were akin to those crazy inspirational people in the 100 marathon club- the daring-dos who had earnt exclusive membership by trial & maybe the odd injury. And then I made my own Named Jamie jeans. The mystery evaporated. I would say now that the Named Jamie Jeans must be a very good pattern to start with, entry level jeans if you will. I mean they must be for me to be so happy with *my first ever pair of jeans*, right?
I bought some black stretch denim (3% stretch) from my local fabric shop. Now I have to apologise for this unfortunate typo from Rachel, but you’ll get the drift- it’s a great tip – but you may wonder that we didn’t get more weird followers after this exchange!
@Scruffybadgerti indeed. I dont go for more than 3 % stretch as it goes soggy on the crotch
— HouseOFpinheiro (@HouseOFpinheiro) January 4, 2014
Thanks Rachel you are a star. And I used elephant cotton for the pocket bags from my Laurel dress. Now what’s possibly different about Jamie jeans to aid the S.M.O.J. virgin? There is less top stitching which immediately reduces that stress factor (still uses loads of thread mind you & there is top stitching on most of the seams. I’ve done it all in matching not contrasting thread). It could be that each leg has a centre front seam – might this make them easier to fit? It is also a cool design detail that makes the front pockets easy. The pockets at the front are darling (not welt pockets that I originally thought, but nice tab topped, with straight seams). And I totally copied the Named design inspiration by using the wrong side as contrast to the tab tops. The back pockets too have a nice design – being formed in two pieces.
Now I probably need to say that the instructions for the Jamie Jeans are without pictures, but don’t be put off. The quality of the descriptions is excellent. And there are plenty of resources to help online or in books if you need pictures.
What else helped take the stress out of these jeans for me? Well, having gone through the bushtucker Clover fitting trials I have a better idea about fitting tight trousers – which is big help. I constructed these jeans with machine basting stitches (prior to zip insertion stage) to get the fit as good as I could before then sewing the real seams. There were quite a few ons & offs as I tweaked here & there. (And the most massive pin injury I had ever encountered as I pulled these skinnies over my bare legs, not realising I’d left one in stray. Ouch). And as always it strikes me when trying on & fitting that the paper pattern is for a *standard shaped normal person’s body* so when I have to take out shapes here & there from otherwise straight seams it doesn’t half make me feel like I must have an odd body! But keep faith – it all comes right when it’s 3D.
I took such a massive wedge out of the centre back with about 10cm out of the waistband. It’s a shaped waistband & I did worry about the impact of chopping off 10 cm from the end and I did not have enough denim left to cut another waistband. And if anything, this is probably where my jeans are let down: the size of the overlapping waistbands are different at the front. But never mind.
(sorry a bit wrinkly – I’d surgically removed them from my body to photograph them)
Whilst I transferred these alterations to the paper pattern I am under no illusion that any two stretch denims behave the same …next time I shall have to be careful I am not too cocky & try on before finalising fit.
What I also love about these jeans is the crotch seam – it’s described in the instructions as a “jeans seam” it might even be a flat felled seam, but boy it looks nice, even if I say so myself!
The buttonhole was a pain. I’ve got one of these keyhole buttonholes on my machine & despite numerous test buttonholes was it alright on the night? Correct, I think I had to unpick the buttonhole several times which is galling because it’s one of the last steps & you’re just itching to wear them. And unpicking buttonhole stitches with super-matching thread? Not fun. But then the fun was realised when attaching the jeans button. Off I tripped across the garden into the garage to find hammer, spare bit of wood & something sharp & pointy ( I used a screw). With the confidence inspired by this “How to insert jeans buttons” tutorial on Youtube I got enough of a DIY fix for now thank you very much. It worked great first time. But generally I find the thought of DIY (or the results of DIY) exciting, but actually doing it a combination of scary, tedious & less preferable than mowing the lawn.
Now what about my tips? First check out Jane’s tips for sewing with denim here. To add to this, I would say my walking foot was indispensable – on the odd occasion I forgot to use it, I could really tell the difference. Also a nice jeans needle is an essential. My machine ate up the denim, it did not chew up the belt loops & it positively loved the top stitching. What was I worried about?
My other tip when sewing trousers – do not measure the hem of one leg & apply it to the other leg willy nilly. I used to make sure my trouser legs were exactly the same length. And then I realised that due to my hip level or even simply my odd legs, they’re different sizes! So set your hems for each leg measuring the hem so that the trouser hems both fall on the same part of your foot/ leg. I wanted turn ups so allowed for that.
Now, I’ve left the swooning till the end. If ever an item of clothing I’d sewn had potential to have a large influence on my style it’s these jeans. I never had a proper pair of skinnies before & didn’t really wear jeans much since wanting to only wear my own clothes and not buy RTW. But now? I am in love. They are so cute. So comfy. Yes, amazingly something made out of denim & fitting this closely really is super comfortable!!
With ankle boots they look grown up, with ballet flats I could bring on a vintage vibe. The lack of overt topstitching makes them feel as if they could pass for dressier occasions, but being denim means they’re casual too. Totally Jekyll & Hyde.
And this is a Named outfit, good spot. That is my Named Blair top….
Feel like diving into jeans ?